Craig Law's trek to Basecamp at Everest

Video Montage - Epilogue

2011-07-28T14:03:00.000-07:00

I pulled together the video and pictures from the trip and added some music. Hope you enjoy! I wonder what the next adventure will be?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaDo0zGYQ-4

Epilogue...sort of

2011-05-15T19:54:00.000-07:00

There was a summit bid..but what happened?

blogspot.com went down hard...thats what!! For almost 2 days the vehicle for sending the message out was unavailable. I hate when technology fails me...LOL

I share that not be in any way critical of those who tirelessly try to keep an application up, but as a metaphor for the reality of climbing. You never know how things are going to turn out until they do. When you plan, that is what is it is. The reality between dreams and how it turns out is what it is.

So, a day late and a dollar short, I just wanted to post that Peak Freaks had 4 successful climbers make it to the summit of the roof of the world, 7 others on the team make it to the summit and EVERY single expeditioner and support returned safely. That is a 20 year track record with bringing everyone home who went up. Bravo to all....Parties at Base Camp, pots banging and champagne corks popping around the world. There certainly was a certain special bottle of champagne that was enjoyed here celebrating what has been an odessey beyond what I realized there would be.

Now the rest of the teams trying to summit have their shot at the mountain, best of luck to all. To the Peak Freaks expeditioners, congrats to every one for their incredible personal sacrifice, I for one, applaud you each and every one. If you made it, my hat goes off to you for the success few in the world have achieved though many try. For those who did not quite make it...the mountain is still there and remains to tempt you back. With few exceptions, there is always tomorrow.

And for the Nepalize people...thank you so dearly for opening your arms, your world, your soul and your piece of heaven to those who dare to dream and seek their own personal xanadu.

Namaste!

IT IS GO TIME!!! SUMMIT PUSH IS ON!

2011-05-12T09:37:00.000-07:00

Namaste!

The Peak Freaks Team has left South Col (26,000 ft/8,000 meters) and is pushing for the summit ! This link will be the official information coming from the team:

http://peakfreaks.com/everestnews2011.htm

It is not expected to hear from the team till 5:30pm ET for numerous technical and safety reasons, but you can follow the personal GPS of one of the climbers and see the progress to the summit.

http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0gGrI7AOKdxShYgoRS64AmLN2UdY50M8W

Send good karma everyone....

It is nearly "GO" time!!

2011-05-10T17:31:00.000-07:00

Houston, we have countdown!

The climbing team is sleeping at Camp 3, with the rarest of calm clear weather in the very near future!

One more of the climbers has had to retreat, the effects of altitude and harsh conditions taking its toll, but 11 climbers are sleeping at Camp 3 (24,000 feet).

While we sleep tonight in North America, they will wake and push to camp 4 at 26,000 feet (8,000 meters) where they will spend a horrid night in cold that is close to indescribable. They will use all means at their disposal, such as battery powered electric heaters for their feet, to give them the best chance to summit. They will have high altitude dreams in which they will endure hallucinations and the most vivid and bizarre dreams of their life including a repeating sense of suffocation, usually awaking with gasps, realizing their bodies have stopped breathing. It is an experience high altitude climbers know comes with the territory, foreign for all but a very few in this world. It is living on the edge of the death zone, the altitude where you cannot get enough oxygen and you are in fact not able to stay more than hours, and counting every minute until you can get back down where your body can begin to recover.

For the climbers though, Camp 4 marks but a short passage of partial rest before the long push for the summit. That starts often through the labors of night with the need to have reached the peak early in the morning to guarantee enough time to get back down before the sun drops down in the day and the wicked cold returns.

It is countdown time, with all the complexities of a Space Shuttle launch, everything comes down to preparation, planning, and quite frankly a little bit of karma and a whole lotta luck.

Godspeed. Read the up to the minute story and follow the GPS tracking up EVEREST !!!

http://peakfreaks.com/everestnews2011.htm

Waiting for the window

2011-05-08T17:55:00.000-07:00

Not going into great detail, but the gang is at Camp 2 sleeping, waiting for the clear air to start towards the summit push. Winds up high have been brutal but easing off now...leaving a window...a window that might permit dreams to happen.

In Mothers Day honor, we placed our prayer flags out on the porch...to catch the wind and to send our wishes upward....a long way away....

Go team...Go Peeps...Go Peak Freaks!!

Everest Update for those not following the Peak Freaks Blog...

2011-05-04T14:45:00.000-07:00

The Peak Freaks Team is back in Base Camp after a few days rest at lower (and richer) air. The weather pattern is looking hopeful for the next couple days and the Sherpas have managed to fixed ropes all the way to South Col (Camp 4) and oxygen, stoves and tents are awaiting the Peak Freaks team when they arrive. The plan is to have climbers ascend to either Camp 1 or 2 depending on individual comfort, then rest for a day or so and ascend upwards hoping to get to Camp 3 within a couple days.

Tim, the team leader gave his quest talk, the one about what is really important in a climb. He focused on remaining resolute in each climbers responsibility to the safety of the guides, their fellow climbers, themselves, the Sherpas and Peak Freaks and to remember that family and friends are on this climb as well every step of the way and they are trusting each of the climbers to come home alive and intact. He also used some visual aids, suffice it to say having seen them myself, they are effective in making sure you understand the consequences of risky behavior on the mountain.

Unfortunately, the news was not all good. One of the team's support had to be evacuated by helicopter to a hospital in Kathmandu for severe stomach ulcers which required a transfusion and intense re-hydration becuase he had not been eating or drinking. One of the challenges in this part of the world is that Sherpas hear about going to a western medical team or hospital and dying. They have only lead a simple sustanance farming life and do not yet understand how western medical care can save lives. The Sherpas in their world often have not seen a car, a city or bright lights unless via a movie or the internet.

The impact of not understanding is often a fear to admitting an ailment. True to the Sherpas incredible loyalties, even in being evacuated the Sherpa was most distressed not about himself but about not completing his committments and bringing home an income this year to his family and to letting down the Peak Freaks Team in his absence. Tim, the trip leader true to his nature assured him neither was happening. Great guy. The kind you want in your corner.

The other sad news is the loss of a non-Peak Freaks climber. An experienced mountaineer who had successfully summitted six of the seven continental summits as he was near Camp 3. The Peak Freaks Sherpas have been busy as they were also involved in the recovery mission. The unfortunate reality is that not everyone gets to summit and not everyone gets to come home and tell their story.

But with the weather improving, the route is in place and the climbers are getting excited. This is where dreams sometime come true.

Now onto the Expedition Team's Story

2011-04-20T04:46:00.000-07:00

Namaste!

Now that I am back, I want to make sure that no one loses sight that the real story of Everest this year is just now unfolding. My trek to Basecamp was with a great group of trekkers at the beginning of the Everest climbing season to reach my goal and now the Peak Freak expeditioners who were our traveling companions are setting up their route to attempt to climb Everest. This will happen over the rest of this month and next.

My story is wrapping up and theirs is now fully underway! Please follow my peeps as they make their dreams come true. Here is a link to the expedition blog!

http://www.peakfreaks.com/everestnews2011.htm

To give you a background on these fellow adrenaline junkies, here is a link to their bios. Fascinating group and great personalities, each one of them! On the bio page picture, you might even recognize lil 'ol me in the front. :)

http://www.peakfreaks.com/everest2011team.htm

Enjoy!!

Hi Res photos now available

2011-04-18T05:03:00.000-07:00

Greetings All! I am back now and wanted to make sure I gave everyone access to the high-resolution photos of the trip. Click on the link below to view. Thanks so much for letting me take you along and I hope it was a fun ride for each of you. Namaste! https://picasaweb.google.com/111494777449395532022/EverestTrek2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCNuNku7E4o2qKQ&feat=directlink

Escape from Lukla

2011-04-14T04:08:00.001-07:00

The morning started off great. Breakfast at (ODT) o’dark thirty so we could be ready. We are the second flight out. The weather has been frightful the past few days from Katmandu to Lukla with Lukla being fogged/clouded/rained in more days since we started this trek than not.

Yesterday as we headed up and down the 7,000 stairs to get back to lukla (ed. Just because you are desending 1,000 feet doesn’t mean that you go down 1,000 feet. On the Everest trail you go up 2,000 feet, down 700, then up 500, down 2,000, then up 1,500 and so on and so on and……whew…you can get exhausted just thinking about it). Each day I amateurishly estimate we have 20,000 feet of elevation change. Given my training maxed out at 12,000 and I thought I was a badass for that much, it was WELL beyond my comfort zone. I was pooped). Coming into Lukla last eve it was near dusk and all we wanted was food and bed. All day long there was a constant train of people, porters and yaks all headed up the valley. Guess it was a good traffic day! So glad we are not part of that onslaught and that it was quiet for our trek.

In the morning my stomach as in knots. Not nervousness, just totally sour. Something in last nights meal did not agree with me and I barely can sip a coca-cola. No matter, the sky starts clear and we are hopeful that second plane out is golden. First plane leaves at 6am and hearing the roar of the twin otter sounded like freedom to us. Such a sweet sound. We are all packed, gear in bags and at the front gate with the porters ready to bring it to the airport entrance which you can see from the photo was right across the street. 8am, 9am, 10am and nothing. Not a good sign. Our Sherpa leader is pacing and tries to keep us all positive. I decide an extra nap is in order so read a bit on the kindle and fall asleep. Fast forward to 11am and I hear the roar of incoming planes. A troupe departs and heads up the trail but still no word of any outgoing traffic. We hear one plane roar down the runway and our Sherpa leader bolts into the airport and starts talking with key individuals. Politicking? Finding out what is going on? We don’t know. Now I am pacing. A lot! Those who know me know that is not a good sign. I have been kidding everyone about walking down the runway to the end and waving planes in. I am reminded that international incidents are to be avoided if at all possible. OK, OK…no fun this time…but tell me the visual isn’t hysterical!

So we are all in the restaurant room, when suddenly the leader bursts in and says…we gotta go…now, hurry..but first..there will be two flights…the first can only take 5, who wants to go first. Without hesitation or any consideration of ladies first, my hand goes up and I say…I’m IN!!!! I jump up, grab my backpack and head out the door, Ang says goodbye to me, shakes my hand and wraps my neck in a prayer scarf. I smile and thank him for everything. Now he tells me to hurry…and as quickly as the next 4 choose to be the guinea pigs, we go into the airport. This is where it gets hairy. Many people (perhaps 100) are all crowded in the terminal and we are now RUNNING past them and towards security. A booking agent hands us boarding passes as fast as we can get them and down to security we go past the long line of people staring in absolute shock and awe. Security asks if I smoke, No I answer and he says, no lighters, no knives? Nope…safe here. He goes into my backpack and sees my 2 inch scissors. NOT ALLOWED, NOT ALLOWED he says. I say ok…no problem, keep the scissors. I don’t think he was prepared for my pre-emptive surrender of my gear to make the flight. He looks bewildered…I repeat..”no problem, keep them” and he says, “really?”….by then I have grabbed my backpack, run past security and am now stampeding down the jetway (if you can call it that). I get outside and the nice man with the automatic weapon directs me where to go with the barrel of his killing machine. I comply with a smile. We are now standing on the tarmac and there is a plane 50 feet in front of us with engines roaring, cargo bay open with baggage handlers frantically trying to dump all the contents onto the tarmac (forget a pallet, right on the tarmac). At this point I look up and realize that it is pouring rain, I can barely see the end of the runway and can’t see the mountains that I saw from our window this morning (see photos). Oh, oh….this really is serious I am saying to myself.

Without warning and with the best image of the movie the “Killing fields” running across a war zone with full orchestra music in the background we are yelled at, quick, quick, run and follow me, hurry….hurry. We are now sprinting AROUND the airport. We run past the runway and down the hill (what…down the hill?) for probably a ¼ mile. On the right off the tarmac are two ITTY BITTY (highly technical term) single engine planes. The plane that was on the runway now hits full throttle and flies down the runway and into the sky with us 50 feet away…. Huh?

Oh, oh…hey I didn’t sign up for THIS!!?? But it was too late. They pull the tarp off one plane that had clearly not been in service, the pilot and co-pilot hop in, and the little single engine plane jump starts, while the bags get thrown in the back and we are poured into these tiny little seats (and mine pressing my body way forward past 90 degrees). I click my buckle, say a buddist prayer (because when in rome as it were :) and within seconds and I do mean SECONDS, the door closes, they give us our total flight instructions which consists of DO NOT TOUCH THIS HANDLE IN FLIGHT and BUT IN CASE OF EMERGENCY, PULL HANDLE BACK TO EXIT PLANE. I laugh at the irony that this is completely accurate information and completely useless as well because if A, then B, then C= a small mush mark on a Himalayan hilltop somewhere.

He slams the engines into full throttle and uses the uphill slope to test the engine RPMs and oil pressure, spins the plane around at the top and before the plane has a chance to fully stop its turn, releases the wheel brake and we start down the launch pad with a roar. Now I have been on one more terrifying flight than this which is the stuff of legend, but OMFG, it was as if we were launching as the last plane out of Saigon and there was no second chances because the bombing was to begin. What on earth had been said between Katmandu and Lukla I do not know but the pilot/copilot were on a mission to deliver this cargo to Kathmandu NOW. I couldn’t figure out if we were running FROM something or TO something! We rocket down the airstrip, easily gain takeoff speed and leave the runway early. Steep climb and we were at least 2 miles from the airport before the outlines of the mountains came into view. Captain and copilot were on their radios the whole time, scanning the horizon for ground landmarks (remember, only visual flight rules for this flight) and climbing, climbing, climbing. Then the turbulence started.

The plane spend quite some time buffeting and I pick my head up from the seat rest in front of me long enough to see the POWERED BY GARMIN GPS. OMFG redux….they are flying via a car GPS? Oh no, this can’t be good. Well, it was and then he switched modes and the Doppler radar shows up. Now I am not a pilot or do I know much about flying but I did recognize on the Doppler that there were ranges of green which I interpreted as low turbulence, yellow which I interpreted as moderate turbulence and a blood red that I interpreted as bad mojo. We wove at 18,000 feet through the green and yellow zone occasionally threading the needle between two red zones in a little patch of yellow. I put my head down at those moments because I knew that I wasn’t going to want to watch how the plane responded to those spots. Ugh….where is the pepto when you really need it. Barf bags, LOL…seatback pocket empty. Guess they got used up on the last flight.

Over the first 30 mins of the 45 min flight, we see the snow covered peaks in the distance and for a brief second I wistfully realize this is probably the last time I will ever see the most grand mountains in the world. Right on cue, a hard jolt and bounce up and down with the pilot struggling to level the plane and that feeling was gone….nope…good bye roof….glad to have met you and even gladder to be homeward bound.

As we get closer to Katmandu, the air settles significantly and we make a typically steep decent into KTM airport landing softly and smoothly and get out onto the warm tarmac (30 degrees+ from less than an hour ago) and realizing that some of the bags from us were on the other plane and some of the second flight passengers bags we had.

We are transported by van back to our hotel, and the second group arriving only minutes behind but without 3 bags, mine being one of them. Two hours later, they arrive and all is well. This insane adventure is about to take a step into relax mode, with the finishing of this section of the blog and some shopping and bartering in Katmandu. Oh, yes. And I think I might have a beer. By some’s account I might even deserve one! Enjoy the last days photos….

Namaste

After landing in Kathmandu, a quick view of our escape plane. 5 people and 9 bags = darn close to overloaded!

Powered by "GARMIN"??????

Excuse me pilot, but are there drinks on this flight? Xanax despensers perhaps?

Entrance to Lukla Airport. Yack poop optional.

A look down the runway view from our teahouse window at daybreak.

The view out our window at the teahouse at Lukla at 6am.

A field of Garlic on the way back. Garlic soup is very popular in Nepal and is said to help with acclimitizaton.

A mere 175lbs on the back!

A picture so you can see what porters carry. To give you perspective, the plywood the two porters are carrying is 4" think . Go to your local hardware store and try to get 4" of plywood on your back, let alone carry it up and down a trail in altitude for days! They are AMAZING!

Last days trek "up and down the 7,000 stairs" (Rush reference)

Our last view of Everest from the trail leading back to lukla

Back in Kathmandu

2011-04-13T04:02:00.000-07:00

One step closer to home!

The Bravery - Believe (so what's next??)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MYgKGeSAjk

(link not working today. Cut and paste for the final song!)

Good day world, its Everest Base Camp calling. I made it!!!

2011-04-11T08:21:00.000-07:00

Stardate April 8, 2011.

Sorry for the weak “good morning Vietnam and startrek “ references but somehow they fit. Base camp is EPIC, base camp is huge, it is inspiring, it is frightening, it is friggin cold and windy. It is NOT a honeymoon destination. The best views of Everest are actually not at base camp at all. At base camp you see the glacier you have to climb…and it goes over a ridge and disappears. To see Everest, go to Kalla Pattar 2hrs away and climb that.

Sleeping at Base camp is an honor to say the least and one to last a lifetime. Our site is carved out of the glacier and the sound at night is surreal as you hear the popping, squeak and clicks as the glacier moves ever so gently. When you put up your tent you are constantly adjusting it as it will move ever so slightly. Avalanche thunder can be heard throughout the day and night as mini avalanches happen all around the base camp bowl and you can hear them, but rarely see them as they echo often off the opposite of the bowl. The night….a balmy 15-20 degrees F. Brrrr…sleeping on 2 pads on ice…still brrrr…

First night at EBC:

Ugh, got AMS (altitude sickness). Acclimitized to 16,000 ft no problem but in the am after sleeping at our last stop before EBC I woke up with the famous migraine. Hard to explain, easy to empathsize anyone who has dealt with it. At base camp it was horrid and the team lead agreed I should get onto Diamox to blunt the symptoms. Next AM, headache muted but am wiped out…feel like a cardiac patient….being winded from just walking 3 steps. You know those movies of people climbing Everest and they are stepping so slow….gotta tell you…that is FLYING. I was doing it 10,000 lower!
Anyway, pills, no activity, had to choke down cauliflower and a couple forkfuls of spaghetti, cause appetite is gone in altitude. Restless sleep if you can call it that, more like passive resting and trying to sleep. Next morning is a puja ceremony for the buddists to bless the trekkers, climbers, staff and equipment. The Sherpas take these blessings amazingly seriously. They built a stumpa (buddist alter) and did the ceremony. Interesting enough chang (rice beer) Is a part of the ceremony so everyone is nice lubricated by the end of it! PS…altitude and alcohol and I do not mix…I will be nearly 3 weeks without a touch. I think that might be a record since high school! 

I skipped climbing kalla pattar to opt for rest. Good choice as those that went slogged through driving snow and 40+ mph winds to see absolutely nothing at the top except snow.

Now looking at 3- 10+ hour days trekking back what it took us 9 to get here. BRUTAL! My goal has been met and its time to get on down the valley and homeward bound. Cant wait for some rich air.

Interestingly, Tim, the trip guide said I have the physiology to summit. My resting pulse near base camp was under 60, and my O2 sats were hovering between 89-92 which at EBC levels are very rare and in fact better than many of the climbers. He suggested giving it some thought. Ok, thought over. Nope. Craig Law will not be attempting to summit Everest. Those climbers were FLYING up the valley at 5x my speed and just because I have good scores…there is so much I would have to consider. First is being brutally cold. Been there, done that, earned the T-shirt in Kayaking. Left that behind along with the propensity for cold hands and feet from now on….nope, not a good idea in my mind. Then there is being away for 2 months. Nope. Cant do it. This trip is 3 and I am climbing the walls to be home. Maybe Killamenjaro, Those who have climbed it says it is 10x easier than getting to base camp. Cool, I can dig that. For that though I don’t want to be alone. I want to share the experience with my wife who wants to go. That is..after visiting the polar bears.

Trip down the valley- heading down

It was a tearful goodbye and my message to each climber was….do the family proud, make it to the summit but more importantly, make it back.

According to our trip leader, this is the coldest and worst weather since he has been coming to base camp almost 30 years ago. I liken it to karma giving me a tast of what Ed Hillary dealt with on his summit bid and first successful summit. It only fits that we set off if snow. Like what we dealt with for days all the way back to Namche. Now in Feraschaie (sp) for a quick night sleep (again in heat less accomodations) Nepalese don’t heat much and none of the teahouses have had heat. Have I mentioned the primary toilet is an Asian (ie squatting) toilet. Have I mentioned no flush. In the nicer places, they had a barrel of water to help flush the toilet. Have I mentioned I have gone thru 3 hand santizers bottles yet?...LOL

Day 2. Ferachaise to Namche.

Long 8+hour day and up and down thousands of feet to reach Namche. Now here. Tomorrow is an equally brutal day to Lukla. From that point on the gods rule the trip. The flights out of Lukla are a real concern since with all the snow, and the requirement of visual flight rules for this flight, one cloud across the pass cancels flights. It was not until today that we have seen many trekkers heading up the valley and we are one of a few heading down again. That is if you do not count the guy on the horse who had an altitude stroke, eyes crossed barely able to hold on heading for a steep part of the trail. Or the doctor staggering while leading family members up the trail. Our trip leader tried to warn them “even doctors die. He is not well” or the Japanese family heading up the valley in oxygen masks. Pray they don’t run out before the flights back out or they are in for a world of hurt!
Here is the Expedition blog, so after my blog is finished (or if you want to be schizophrenic and follow both) you can see my peeps and their attempts at climbing the biggest mountain in the world. Myself, I am wistfully dreaming of getting a chance to eat sushi at Narita airport but is no longer on my current itinerary.

More to come..but internet is flaky so we'll see if this even posts!

pictures from last few days..sorry internet down in nepal

2011-04-11T04:39:00.000-07:00

EBC glacier formations More glacier formations Ice shelf over basecamp Everst Base Camp weather every day!!

Look closely. Entrance to base camp at big round ball at bottom, where we were at upper right corner

everest glacier coming from right, turning left and heading down valley. EBC is at far left corner of glacier

mid glacier formations much below basecamp

further down the glacier

the 1,000 foot hill we needed to scale for memorial field

the valley we climbed up to get to base camp

entrance to the trail. See the two small bushes at bottom...its in there somewhere!

view from a town

how we knew our way home

trail down

pheasent I caught on film

flowering rhododendrum

two towns hours apart because the only way to get between them is down the valley

harvesting potatoes

town we stayed in

proof I made it...EBC baby

views from the trail

on a high trail

kairns

high on the trail

hiking up trail

ice falls everywhere

memorial for fallen climbers

down the valley we go

more valley shots

craig at base camp

base camp for peak freaks

high mountain shots

\\\

more high mountain shots

better base camp shot

peak freaks stupa

puja ceremony

team on puja day

kumbu icefall

ice formation

Heading Down the Mountain

2011-04-10T04:16:00.000-07:00

Rush - Limelight http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dzt1EwAE-U&feature=related Promises for more pictures and posts as we head into area with Cyber cafe's!

Final Day in Base Camp

2011-04-09T03:56:00.000-07:00

Katie Perry - Firework (Inspired performance) http://youtube.com/watch?v=rYpUavuANJc

Base Camp!!! Yeah!

2011-04-08T09:00:00.000-07:00

Arrived in Base Camp! BLack Eyed Peas - I Gotta Feelin' (We'll be dancing at the highest point in the world you can sing) We are gonna "burn" THE ROOF! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1WSgN_edQQ&playlist=1%list=PLC4FF5BFC865A07F8

Loboche and last stop before Kalla Pattar and EBC

2011-04-07T18:59:00.000-07:00

Rush - Tai Shan (I know its in China, but the lyrics imagery is spot on) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwoEuS3WXg4

Last day in Dingboche

2011-04-06T03:53:00.000-07:00

Greetings from the trail. Today was our last test before heading up the trail to base camp. We climbed Nama Tshing (could have butchered the name dont hold me to it) with is 18,000 feet tall. 4 hours up, 1 hour for summit lunch and then 1 hour down...6 hours round trip. This is our trip leaders test to see if we are up for the altitude at kala patar and basecamp. I passed!

Tomorrow we head up the trail and from all acounts out of range for awhile so send good karma this cold snap stops (dont think it broke freezing today) and for the snow flurries of the afternoon to stop..(makes it colder than it is).

There were pics from today but will have to wait for a later post.

So deep up the trail towards Mount Everest...not much in the way now....

To 18,000 feet we go!

2011-04-05T03:54:00.000-07:00

Crossing the Dudh Koshi River suspension bridges over the canyons and up, up, up! The Bravery - Fearless (gotta give a shout out to my coach's son Sam Endicott , the singer!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2QPJ2xGMiY&feature=artistob&playnext=1&list=TLECVu7qzyEvA

Now at Dingboche

2011-04-05T03:27:00.000-07:00

Pic and todays story below, but for those who do not know the trail to everest, here is an itinerary. I've lost track of what day it is..but here is the basics of where we are going...and then back to the regular blog! First day trek, LUKLA2800 meters- Landing here on the small carefully loaded twin otters as you approach you can see a cliff in front of you, the stall alarm sounds and you quickly come to a stop on the uphill landing strip. Lukla Airstrip is port of call for Yaks, porters, Mountaineering expeditions and Trekkers. Goods and people are delivered here in the morning hours prior to the afternoon mountain weather setting in. The trek begins today slowly toward Mt. Everest, following ancient trading routes still used by Rai Magar, Tibetan, Brahmin and Sherpa traders on their way to and from Namche Bazaar. The trail climbs through Mushe and Chaundrikartka at 2680 meters to Chablung, then drops to Ghat at 2550 meters where you spend the night in a quaint little house along side the river. From here on the trek is pretty much up, up, up. Early morning starts in the Khumbu Valley. Rise around 0700, bags packed on the trail at 0800. Today is one of the hardest days of the trek. Walk for 2.5 hours stopping for lunch break in Monjo, gate to the park headquarters. Arrival in Namche Bazaar at 4:00pm. NAMCHE BAZAAR: 3440 meters-Namche Bazaar is a village lying at the junction of the Dudh Koshi and a lateral valley that leads to frontier pass of Nangpa La 5500 meters. It is tucked away in a "bowl" at a height of 3440 meters. The first Europeans entered it in 1950 and many more have come since then. However, the basic character of the village remains unchanged. It has an airplane landing strip high above and a temple with a stream of clear water flowing past it. Prayer flags, inscribed with words "Om mani padme hum" flutter from every rooftop and every house has a cottage industry where Yak wool is spun and woven into carpets. Facilities like a bank, a post office, hotels and shops where one can purchase climbing equipment as well as tinned food have sprung up over the years. Namche Bazaar is the major regional training center, and contains the headquarters of the Sagamartha (Nepalese for Everest) National Park. Day 05: 6 hour hike to help our bodies acclimatize to the new altitudes to endure in the days to come. Visit the Sir Edmund Hillary School in Khumjung. Views of Mt. Ama Dablam, Everest, Nupste and Lhotse . KHUMJUNG- KUNDE: A day hike to Kunde - Home of the Sir Edmund Hillary Hospital Day 06: Begin making the journey up the Everest valley. Walking for about 5 hours directly underneath majestic peaks with Mt. Everest in the distance. Stop for tea at the Ama Dablam guesthouse owned and operated by Lhakpa Dorjee (who summited with the first Canadian on Everest Laurie Skreslet from Calgary) the trail winds along the top of the valley offering incredible views. Lunchtime drop down to the river for lunch at the village of Phunki. This is the last blast of rich air before making our way up to the top of the hill to Tengboche. Tour of the monastery. TENGBOCHE: 3870 meters-or Deboche Thee most famous monastery in all of Nepal is here, the Tengboche monastery. It is one of the important centers of Buddhism in the region. The largest gompa in the Khumba region, it was built in 1921 and then destroyed due to a fire in 1989 and has been carefully rebuilt partly with aforeign aid and volunteers. From Tengboche, one gets a panoramic view of the Himalayan giants Kwandge, Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Kantenga, and Thamserk. Day 07: Today's walk will take you across the Dudh Kosi river, through a rhododendron forest and up to Pangboche for lunch then on to Dingboche. Day 08: Dingboche for the night. Day 09: Start as per normal up at 0700 on the trail by 0800- trek for 4 to 5 hours. The trail climbs to Phalang Karpa at 4340 meters then Dugla (lunch stop) at 4620 meters before reaching Loboche at 4930 meters. The trail looks down on Pheriche (place of the high altitude medical facility). make your way to Lobuche for 2 nights. We will start to feel the effects of altitude now and accommodation is not as comfortable as it was lower in the valley. Day 10: a more aggressive day attempting the summit of Kala Pattar. Non-technical hike, no climbing skills or equipment required. Return to Loboche lodge for nights stay. KALA PATTAR: 5545 metersEVEREST BASE CAMP 5300 meters- Kala Pattar is a small mountain 5545 m high on the southern flank of Pumori (7145m). It is a trekking peak and every year tourists climb the peak to enjoy the fantastic panoramic views it offers of the Khumbu glacier, Everest and nearby peaks like Lhotse and Nuptse. The east Makalu, Ama Dablam, Pumori, and Cho Oyu are visible. From here you can look down onto Everest & Pumori Base Camp, as it is higher. The views of Everest are far superior to being at Everest Base Camp itself. Day 11: Up early 0600 for a full day- 7 hours trekking on the rocky moraine to Everest Base Camp. Upon arrival stay in tents. Meals with the expedition and the excitement of climbers starting to make their summit bids. After that..get the hell out of dodge, down the valley back to lukla and hopefully a plane home. Please read post before these photos..sorry at the internet cafe I am at, it is the only way I can format! Now at Dingboche.....with everest in upper right corner Harvesting of potatoes..buried in fall, kept in ground over winter till spring thaw... Now we change yak styles....now the long hair himilayan yak...much larger...here is one on the trail The view back down the trail we are going up. This morning clear...but V cold himilayan goats across the valley our tea house this morning with everest in center...notice the jetstream vapor trail The inside of the monastary we visited Outside...change of clothes as its getting really cold More yak photos...amazing beasts one more...lol

snow as it started, getting hardeer till the valley disappeared

our thundersnow am wake up

Yesterday was a long day. We started with a 2am thunder snow. Woke up to an inch of snow on the ground and cold.Turns out it stayed below freezing the whole rest of the day.Thanks to a little help from Cipro, I am back to my old self and feeling normal again. Just what the doctor ordered! Our hike started in flurries and as we got down the path, it continued to get heavier and heavier. By the time we were heading down to the river we could barely see across the valley. With trail muddy, I managed to take a spill and although I’ll be taking a few advil for the bruised spine, it was my ego that took the beating. I hate to look stupid like that. We enjoyed lunch near the river (Had authentic Dahl Bot...sherpa food of potatoes and veggies, flavored with rice), then crossed another suspension bridge….(this one with hand rails way out to the side so they were useless for those of us who need Zanax to cross these things) and while talking to myself and hyperventilating, managed to get across…only to find the trip leader (Tim) right behind me….busted. So I turn to him and casually say “bet you cant tell that is one of my phobias, can you”. He was kind and said I did fine. Not fine would have been to crumple into a fetal position. After the bridge we followed it up with a 3 hour up to the top of the mountain. We anticipated it to be a very hot day with sun and dehydration to be the big worries, but what really turned out was a whiteout….we could see the ground and all around us but not more than a hundred yards ahead. No heat and dehydration! Top of the mountain was bitter cold and howling winds. Ang Sherpa got us into the local monastery and a special tour. Photos to come. The trip into camp was treacherous with muddy slopes down the path. Unheated rooms (as all this trip) and it went down to somewhere between 15-20 degrees (depending on who was saying what it was). For my birding friends, during the decent a raven was absolutely screaming at me on the trail. I stayed by distance and after a minute or so he hopped onto the trail, then hopped to the far side of it, then took off….3 seconds later I see a hawk swooping after him, jet black, 24” windspan and an Baltimore oriole orange tail. Anyone can you help me on this? Not anything close to the rust color of a red tail….BRIGHT orange. Today was a relatively easy hike of only 6 hours without any epic up or downs. Just what the doctor ordered (reprise because once just isnt enough)! It started out with stars in the sky before bed where I could see every star in the sky. Named a star....NSK...for never eat salad in katmandu....(thing I think got me there) very cold but warmed up to the high 30s by midday with the sun. Wind was strong so a layer change was necessary for the last hour or so of the trip. No wireless internet for the next several days so we hear so this will be posted from a cyber café. Now its snowing again and dropped back down into the 20s before dinner...gonna be a cold trek!

Heading up the Everest Valley

2011-04-04T03:55:00.000-07:00

Today we are heading up the Everest Valley proper where the crowds thin out quickly. Rush - Tom Sawyer (and LOL...with special quest appearance by South Park) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFGVDWc_5Q8&feature=related

last day in namche and heading up the kumbu valley

2011-04-03T07:46:00.000-07:00

Last word on this post. Tomorrow is a very long hard day and I may not have energy to post for a day or two but will get any new photos out to you as soon as internet and my exhaustion let me. Let me tell you how much you have to want this to be able to handle the physical demands of this trek....even with sherpa help! Namaste! Namche from above just before we climbed down the trail back into town. the blue are the roofs of the buildings.

Sir Edmund Hillary School where kids from grades 1-9 all get schooled within the valley. Familes send their kids to other families sunday PM to friday PM to get an education.

A gumpa (religious reference point) along with the stones here that actually have carved nepalese prayers on them. In buddist tradition, gumpas and other religious monuments are passed on the left.

Large traditional Tibetian bowls used for cooking or storage. Most sherpas use single bowl cooking so as not to require much cleanup and not to waste anything.

And of course every sherpa home would not be complete without dried sheep meat in reserve for special occasions or a yak tail for ceremonial purposes.

Here is their traditional kitchen where meals for the entire family are made. Sherpas do not use traditional beds, but bed rolls, rolled up each night and the entire family sleeps in the great room in the house all together. If they have teen age children the parents may guide the children to sleep in a different spot each night.

Here is the dried yak dung in the basement, just like a pile of firewood (which is very rare as Nepal is painfully deforested)

Here we each receive a ceremonial lanyard blessed by the lama for good spirits and wishes to each of us for our travels.

For lunch we were invited into the family home of Ang Lima Sherpa, one of the lead Sherpas on the expedition. This is his backyard view. Sitting out back and enjoying the view is not something that he ever probably considers just sitting out one day and watching (the sherpa work ethic is incredible...they work ALL the time!) but it is EPIC.

Here is a modern day sherpa house. The lower floor is for storage of potatoes and other food stuffs and for storage of the dried yak dung that is used like firewood for heat over the brutally cold winters. The families live on the second floors. The yaks also live indoorson the lower floor all winter...so their warmth will radiate up from the lower floor into the living spaces helping to heat the house. Absolutely nothing goes to waste in the sherpa culture. The tend the land with respect and precision and are working hard to keep the region pristine.

Some of the other peaks and glaciers.

This is peak 32. See the massive icefall facing us..the only safe ascent is right up the icefall face...which has periodically broken, killing climbers regularly.

Everest in background...still poking into the jetstream, causing the vapor trail you see coming off of the center peak...that is how tall it is!

A football field sized runway for delivering supplies to the high communities above the valey. See the plane about to land? 5 sherpas emptied the cargo and he was back on his way in 5 mins.

How can you not have a great time, when this is the background of your day?

Tim, giving us instructions on the days events, the path we'll take and how to do the trekking walk. Turns out their is a special pause the sherpas do that gives them a momentary rest while walking and helps to explain how they can walk 6+ hours with packs and not take a break.

Before the rest of the post, gotta say these yaks are not nearly so docile as people lead you to believe. They wander the street, have free reign and keep me on my toes! See above photo snapped the moment before I got the hell out of dodge...he saw me and wanted to play mattidor.

On the first full day of treking, I had the lucky/unlucky award for the first to get attacked by a yak. Walking up the trail the yak train was heading down the trail and I was lucky enough to be by a stone fence a couple of feet high and walked to the break in the fence and up about 4 feet onto the hill. All yaks passed by without incident till the last one....which passed me, turned around and ran full bore thru the break in the fence and into this persons back yard. Me? I hoped the fence back onto the trail to the laughter of all who saw it. The sherpa said he could not imagine what could have made the yak do that. Yup, me and animals...the irony is just amazing.

I have caught several yaks attensions unintentionally since then and watched a sherpa woman slap a yak to get him to move and he came right at me. I jumped to the side and she slapped the yak back in line and laughed as he went on his way...now the other trekkers see a yak and immediatley surround me so as not to let the yak see me. Hysterical.

One other guy on the group caught a yak horn as he passed, the yak swung his head around and stratched his arm. No worse damage but yup, these suckers have a temper...and some small white guy seems to attract their attention. Tonite two yaks were walking up the 200 stairs to the lodge and I waited till they got all the way past the hotel to duck inside....better safe..LOL

Now back to the trek!

some photos along the way from leaving kathmandu to namche bazaar

2011-04-02T08:38:00.000-07:00

Coming into Namche Bazaar... named for the saturday event that is known nepal wide...our home for 2 days to acclimatize. From here on...internet may be spotty so I apologize for any delays but I can only update as their is a way to do it.

Just to prove I was there....yuck, yuck...

Here it is....with the jetstream winds coming off of the roof...first view of everest!

Now a view from right before where you get on....notice the wind blowing the prayer flags? 30 mph cross wind....very, very scary!

Take a look at the beautiful whitewater river...then notice the suspension bridge WAYYYY above it!

Entrance to Everest National Park (called sagarmatha in nepal)

Another of the many...

Yeah, I was MADE for this...LOL (ok, now the truth...these bridges bounce and sway and I had near panic attacks crossing them....yes, many fellow trekkers giggled about it...)

The first of many suspension bridges

Hiking out of Lukla....

See the cliff at the end? That is the fun of when we leave. No second chance.

Our climbing and trekking team were two of four flights that got in this day..heavy cloud cover turned several planes back...that and some turbulence over the mountains (ie your stomach drops out and one of the wings suddenly dips dramatically!

This proves it made it!! See the stone wall at the end of the runway? 900 ft airstrip (75% the size of an aircraft carrier) and no cable to stop you from the wall!

I think I read about these in the history books!

Our plane....one OLD flying tin can!

Brutal Day 2 Hike to Namche Bazaar

2011-04-02T03:38:00.000-07:00

Safely arrived in Lukla on April Fools Day (more irony) and completed the first day of trekking. Day 2, 7 hours Up, Up, Up while fighting a GI bug. Brutal. Hardest up hill hike to Namche Bazaar, Very long, eshausting day. Switchfoot - Dare you to move (Double dog dare you...what do YOU have the courage to do?) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9zo_EdQJns&feature=related

April 1 (Flying into the most dangerous airport in the world)

2011-03-31T16:50:00.000-07:00

Rush - Roll the Bones (because it is what it is...so roll the bones!!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV9yUvNp6z0&playnext=1&list=PL2E887128E1AB3E96

Final Day in Kathmandu

2011-03-31T02:03:00.000-07:00

Our last day in Kathmandu, doing the tourist thing....see below the best of the photos..have to get off quick as its 3pm and the power just went off...hope to save the battery of the laptop to post from along the trail to base camp....tomorrow...LUKLA!!! Let me start with a disclaimer...never in my wildest dreams would I do this....anyone who knows me knows this is the LAST think on the planet I would ever do...but photograph some other stupid fool...sure I can do that. the monkeys before the attack... The monkey temple of Kathmandu

The monkey guarding the temple....yeah I was shaking....

Interiror of the temple

Coming up the stairs into the famous Monkey Temple

The prayer wheels

The interior of the temple

The famous monkey temple of kathmandu

yup...it is what you think it is.....

Monkey family....(anyone who knows me knows that this picture was WAY outside of my comfort zone to take this picture...LOL

Downtown riverfront property....

The thought is that the soul of this elder could not be stopped and has continued to enrich the world around him....

Hindu temple of the pigeons....no really, I cant make this stuff up!

The oldest platform (1000ad) reputed to have been made out of a single great tree.

Inside this castle is where the hindu high priestess stays....now age 6, she is isolated and considered the envy of all...taken care of and carried everywhere even to the point she is not allowed to touch the ground...

Oldest temple...1000bc

Dont know why but this banner made me laugh....guess its that irony thing.

walking the streets of Kathmandu

2011-03-30T04:18:00.000-07:00

I'm not even going to write captions...in fact, how would you caption these.....OMG comes to mind....enjoy the chaos. I put them into folders called "really?" and "traffic". LOL

the pics

2011-03-29T21:03:00.001-07:00

Namaste ...Greetings from Nepal!!

2011-03-29T20:48:00.000-07:00

First full day here in Kathmandu. What organized chaos it is here. What would be considered back alleys in the states are major roads thru town here. Two cars barely fit side by side and the humor only gets exceeded when you have 4 deep people walkiing through the streets and mortorcycles jockeying for position. It all seems to work, somehow. A very curious culture.

Since there are regular planned power outages, when the electricty went out, nothing stops....every shop owner and restaurant has their little Honda generator and the pull them out, plug them in, start them up and Mardi Gras starts right back up. Dinner became even a more intimate experience with candlelight in the restaurants. It is very temperate here (reminds of me of new orleans) so just cool enough for a jacket but not so cool that the outdoor cafes are not the better choice to eat.

It is curious that somehow the India and Chinese grid all tie together with Nepal and so India and China being the big men on campus demand that nepal give up 8-10 hours of electricity a day. So in a city (kathmandu) where smog is ahorrible problem (the smell of wet burned wood -acrid is everywhere), the government somehow makes the situation worse with now nighttime powering by home generators instead of building new more efficient plants. Go figure.

I am hoping to get some good pictures of the chaos that is kathmandu later, but in the meantime, here are two little items. When getting through the airport and the hundreds of porters demanding to carry your bags (smile and keep moving...dont engage), as I got into the chosen taxi to get me to the hotel, I was given a marigold lea as a welcome gift. As I got off the plane, we were given orchid pins. Here is them both. The other is a pic you'll have to look closely at the middle of. I need help from my bird watchers. It is a white headed raven. Very noisy all night! But somehow as a Baltimorean....it was comforting!

Beast to Bangkok

2011-03-28T18:23:00.000-07:00

temps

2011-03-28T17:09:00.000-07:00

Oh, one last thought....flying in to Bangkok I was checking out the temperatures on the way in: 15000 ft - 25degrees 10000 ft - 44 degrees Bankok...a balmy 70 degrees! Just thought you'd want to know what I am thinking about!

quick check in

2011-03-28T17:01:00.000-07:00

Quickly checking in from the Bangkok International Airport before my flight out to Kathmandu. Flight was easy and the only challenge is going to be the jet lag. 12 hour flip flops day night cycle is going to take its toll I suspect. Next stop... Namaste!

across the pond

2011-03-27T23:23:00.000-07:00

Hard to believe a year ago this was the farthest I got. Am checking in from Frankfurt airport, looking forward to visiting lands I have never been to. Caught this amazing shot as night was falling over the atlantic. Enjoy!

Big Big World, Small Small World

2011-03-27T02:27:00.000-07:00

Heading out of Dulles airport in Northern Virginia today for 40 hours of travel to Kathmandu, Nepal. GPS works (it even posted thru to Facebook ..LOL) and the trip leader (Tim Rippel) is making his way to Nepal. The other trekkers I have emailed with are on their way. Like everyone coming together for a rock concert where everybody talks about how big its going to be and how much fun we will all have, we are now coming from around the world to meet and get our own rock stars on. What a big, big world this is. The latest word is that this season is dry and COLD. http://peakfreaks.com/everestnews2011.htm I am ok with dry as it hopefully will make flights into Lukla safe and on time, but cold I am not all that fond of. In past years it was possible to be at base camp and wear a pair of shorts. Doesnt look like that is a reality this year. First stop up the trail is Namche Bazaar and its already below freezing during the heat of the day. That means that base camp may be with sunglasses, hats, mittens, heavy clothing and no exposed skin. We'll see. How big this world is always seems ironic to me because of all the unknown connections that make it so small. One of Peak Freaks dear friends is "Lama Geshe" who has blessed the climbing equipment of all the expeditions for years at the highest temple in the world.. last year had a stroke. Now back at home, he hopefully will be able to continue the tradition. What makes this so fascinating is the Peak Freaks blog speak of his son (perhaps grandson) who returned home from college to be with family during this uncertain time. Nazareth College. My youngest son, Chris, who played NCAA lacrosse at Nazereth College for 4 years, when I mentioned the name Jigme Dorja Sherpa said he thought he might have had a couple classes with him and that he really was enjoying his time in the states and loved learning. Now, with one degree of separation, there is a family connection to the highest temple on the planet. What a small small world. Roger that. Claw out. Hollar at you from the other side of the world (hayftosotw)

The Summit Team & GPS Tracking

2011-03-26T03:22:00.000-07:00

While trekking to Base Camp is my goal for this trip, here is a link to the climbing group that will be making a summit attempt in a few weeks after we head home.
http://peakfreaks.com/everest2011team.htm
Each team member has an inspiring story and they seem like a really fun and exciting crowd. Pick your cause and follow along, its going to be a wild ride!

Additionally, I am bringing a GPS tracker so everyone can follow us along our progress up the trail to basecamp. I haven't figured a way to have links keep floating to the top of the blog so you might have to scroll down as we get farther along or save the link as a favorite for easy viewing. Here is the link:

http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0EPApSvTVEznRkHxOti0DRxS2WYU5Jvzf

For those of you who will want to follow the climbers along their continuing ascent, here is a link to the climbers GPS trackers:

http://peakfreaks.com/spot.htm

A little later...a story of how big and how small this world really is!

Music along the route

2011-03-25T04:23:00.000-07:00

Just to make this adventure even more fun, during my hill trainings I had a lot of close quality time with my .mp3 player. I've culled out some songs that were my source of inspiration along the training routines. They will be posted on certain days along the trek, some with a comment, some just as a link. They should correspond pretty well to my mood or how I imagine I will be feeling along the way. Primarily Rock and primarily by Rush (hey...high energy is what I needed during my training!) I have made most of them visual as well through live performances for added fun. Enjoy.

Final preparations

2011-03-25T04:04:00.000-07:00

Short post here. More later. Altitude tent is gone, made it up to sleeping at 16,000 feet. Packing still to do...testing technologies to make sure GPS tracker works, camera and computer for copying and pasting photos, figuring out how to use the alarm on my watch, new international cell phone (Verizon had promised a loaner then reneged when they learned it would take more than 21 days to get it back. Thinking I may thank them with a carrier switch after 20years as a loyal customer!) Migrating to European time (getting up VERY early these mornings) to help with jet lag since Nepal is a perfect 12 hours flip flop sleep wake cycle.

The todo list just seems daunting. Getting close. Getting excited.

Wheww...that was a close one!

2011-03-18T09:25:00.000-07:00

Last night this blog almost took a tragic turn.

Went for a walk with my wife and got stung by a wasp X2. How crazy...what is the likelihood of a paper wasp in March!!!!! Never saw it coming. No biggie, I've stung tons of times before...but oh, no

This did NOT go the same way!!

10mins..hands and feet on fire and itching.
20 mins face swelled up and I turned scarlet and stomach started cramping up like the flu! Downed two benadryl tabs and we are on the way to the ER!

Never knew what anaphylaxic shock felt like but it is REALLY hard to concentrate..makes you very foggy headed. They had no beds available but with a short 10min wait for triage and 5mins with triage nurse I was in the hallway getting an IV with 25mg IV benadryl (next time chew the damn pills...what was I thinking!! [oh thats right I wasnt!]) and a nice dose of steriods.

1hr later back on my feet with an epipen script and some prednisone tabs and walked out feeling VERY lucky.

Wheww...that was close! What are the odds????

You have got to be kidding, right?

2011-03-16T18:46:00.000-07:00

Last year it was an Icelandic volcano. Nothing like that could ever happen again, could it? On the Epic scale of irony, this rings the bell. Two weeks before I leave, the 5th largest earthquake of recorded history hits Japan, plunging the country into the worst challenges since the horrific end of WW II.

As I type this, 4 nuclear reactors are desperately trying to be wound down or should I just say saved from a full radioactive pool meltdown. Nobody really should have expected that the facilities would have been able to withstand a 9.0+ quake, what is unfortunate is that the reason for the catastrophic events is that backup power generation failed so the water couldn’t be pumped fast enough to cool the reactors. The backup power generation failed because of the equally epic 30+ foot tsunami that took out the northern coast of the country. The scene of devastation is surreal, whole towns gone, towns of 75,000+ just GONE. The third largest economy on the planet in complete shock with huge question marks about ongoing survivability and how they will rebuild.

Day by day I have been watching the Tokyo airport (Narita) postings and ANA airways to see if things were in any semblance of being able to go on. I so wanted to support the region and help support Japan. But I do need to get through. Not an option to get stranded again. Today there was a new notice. All food and beverage service from this point forward on that airline is being halted. Gulp. Its not that I need to be wined and dined while flying but that little admission told me miles about where the thinking and mindset is. They are in survival mode and there is still 2 weeks to go. Time to fly.

I cancelled my reservations and have rebooked my travel almost identically to last year. Frankfurt, Bangkok, then Katmandu. Coming home I have a one day layover in Frankfurt because there were NO open seats coming back. Guess I am not the only one rebooking, huh?
Really, I mean REALLY? This is really absurd how much you have to want to hike up a valley, far, far away. I only wish I could have visited Japan, but it is one travel I may just have to let go, to try to get to the roof. Never any guarantees about anything. Guess that is the lesson of the day. Caveat Emptor and Carpe Diem rolled into one.

The Hill

2011-02-27T13:16:00.001-08:00

Just finished a great 10,000 feet of elevation change workout...I am pooped. 2.5 hours with the weight vest.

Up to sleeping at 12,500 feet...

The countdown is on....T-Minus 28 days and counting.

Sleeping in a tent

2011-02-26T04:29:00.000-08:00

All my gear is spread out in the other room. Still trying to figure out how to cut 2lbs out of my pack, but if I arrive heavy I'll just have to figure it out gametime style (cause thats how I roll!)

Making my attempt at pre-aclimitizing. Sleeping in an altitude tent. Hope to be up past 16,500 for a couple weeks before the trip. Want so much to be able to skip the meds to ward off HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema). They make everything taste like copper. No wonder everyone losses so much weight on this trek...Blechh!! Stuff is nasty. Possibly necessary if you are at risk but nasty.

I am now sleeping at 11,000 and rising in altitude about 1,000 feet a night. No anoxic headaches and have done some basic calcualations to try to be rising consistently. When you get into really thin air (12-13% oxygen or lower) it gets harder to make the increase in altitude smooth. Anoxic headaches are the worst. Migranes that kick your butt for a couple hours (until you get enough oxygen back in your system). Sleeping at such altitude carries its own set of risks, so I'll be very mindful of staying hydrated. As my body adapts, my hemoglobin (material that carries oxygen in blood) will jump precipitously. I'll get some bloodwork done in a couple weeks to make sure it doesnt get dangerously high. If it goes too high, then your blood gets "thick" and can clot = heart attack/stroke. Not ideal. That and when you wake up in the morning you are mildly oxygen deprived so you are "foggy" for 30-45 mins. So I am up a little earlier to stumble around the house and rebound before beginning work. The good side of this is my athletic endurance will be off the charts since my blood will be able to carry extra oxygen. Thats a side effect I will enjoy! :)

Since I live near sea level, climbing the local hill and altitude training is all I can really do physically, that and 20+ miles a week of running. The rest will be mental. For that, it will come naturally.

Brief update along the trail of training

2011-02-13T05:31:00.000-08:00

So last year was quite the fiasco and I have tried to dust myself off, pick myself up and keep going. Round two of attempting Base Camp at Everest. Several things I learned from the first attempt:

Bring a lightweight computer, wifi is everywhere
To avoid an icelandic volcano, avoid traveling to Europe (tho anything can happen anywhere)
Bring your drivers license (cause you never know when you absolutely will need a car)
Give your self a little extra time in travels (a few extra hours between flights is a good thing when delays are so pervasive)
Bring your frequent flier numbers
Have emergency numbers for your group to catch them where ever they are.

How I am doing things differently:

I am flying west. First to Tokyo, then to Bangkok, then Katmandu. I am quite aware that North Korea is in the region and we know that is less than ideal, but the choices are a) europe (volcano) b) middle east (egypt+ whatever) or c) far east. I also know the far east has some volcanic activity but I checked and the flight routes go very far south and should be fine.
Leaving a day early to account for unexpected delays
Going with a new trekking company that brings both trekkers and climbers so when we get to base camp, for a significant portion of the group, it is just the start.

I am hopeful this new group (Peak Freaks out of British Columbia) will be a good match for me. In my past life on the US Kayaking Team, we were all very used to sleeping in cars, tents, grabbing whatever was available in the local markets (though in Katmandu, never) and generally making things up as we went along. This group while more disciplined for their climbing group, seems to go with the flow. I am looking forward to meeting the fellow trekkers and see who will be in the climbing group.

My physical training is still my physical training...the hill is still there to go up and down (ALOT), but it has been a slight change in that the foot of snow we got brought down a dozen trees and changed the trail and the snow stayed for 3 weeks so I got to do it in snowshoes. I had no idea what a workout that was! Fun, but up hill on snoeshoes is WORK! LOL

I've been doing 1.5-2hr workouts and when the snow wasnt there was averaging 8,000 feet up up and down with a 40 lb weight vest. While some of our treks on the trip are 7-9 hours (much longer), I have just given up the thought of being able to get those kind of workouts given my work schedule. I'll persevere, even if uncomfortable. Hopefully the higher intensity steep climb and decent workouts I am doing will be a good training for some of the longer days.

I am also lightening up the load. I had near 50 lbs of gear last time and this time it is asked to keep it to 33lbs. I am closer to 37 right now but can decide what to leave back at Katmandu after assessing the situation when I get there.

Oh, and the altitude tent arrived. Lots of time to acclimatize to a good ways up in altitude.

I heard that there is now 3G wifi all the way to base camp. That should allow me some interaction with the states and to keep in touch a little though I figure it will be like satellite phones and be VERY expensive so no guarentees of long blog posts . I'll post low res photos if I can, the rest when I return.

Someone asked me what happens if I dont make it this time? I am thinking a bit more like a ski-diver, you continually plan more and more to make sure that doesnt happen, but if it does, you just deal with you have to do and come up with plan B.

He's BAAACCCKKKKK!!!!

2010-12-19T13:39:00.000-08:00

Sometimes you just cannot walk away from a challenge. You walk up to it...look at it and walk away...only to walk back up to it...think some more and then walk back away.

Exactly what the trek to Base Camp has been for me. That is until I queued myself up again to make a second attempt.

New Group I am going with.....but more on that later...for now...the training begins..

Keeping up 15-20 miles of running a week and now back to hiking up and down that hill. 500 feet up, then 500 feet down...

Today about 5,000 feet of change...not bad for a first workout.

And I had an audience that just stared and watched and did not budge an inch...

see the pic...how many can you see? There were 10-15.

Subject: U.S. Embassy Kathmandu Warning Message - May 4, 2010

2010-05-04T09:02:00.000-07:00

Important Security Information for U.S. Citizens in Nepal

May 4, 2010

The Unified CPN-Maoist Party has been carrying out nationwide strikes since Sunday, May 2, 2010. Large demonstrations and traffic disruptions are occurring around Kathmandu and throughout the country. These strikes, or "bandhs" as they are referred to locally, have been successful in completely shutting down vehicular movement and businesses.

U.S. citizens are strongly urged to avoid mass gatherings and demonstrations and to avoid traveling by wheeled transportation, including buses, cars, and bicycles. U.S. citizens are advised to monitor the situation closely on local media outlets and to stay in your homes or hotels and not move throughout the area unless absolutely necessary. The U.S. Embassy in Kathmandu was closed on May 3rd and May 4th and will be closed on May 5th and continue to be closed until the strikes are lifted.

Please remain cognizant and aware of your surroundings and what may transpire. We wish to remind U.S. citizens that even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly escalate into violence. U.S. citizens are therefore urged to avoid the areas of demonstrations if possible, and to exercise caution if within the vicinity of any demonstrations.

(TNPLH)3

2010-04-26T17:45:00.000-07:00

Now that I am back with a little less sleep deprivation, I wanted to share a few last thoughts before I close out this adventure. First is a curious comparison this trip offered. Although without the violent death and destruction that accompanied it…the odyssey that was being dumped/stranded/abandoned in a foreign land to figure how to cope and find your way home along with 500,000 people you don’t know is an eerie similarity to what happened in New Orleans with Katrina. The European Union was very vocally critical of how poorly the US handled the crisis (appropriately as far as I am concerned) and yet completely missed the same experience going on in their back yard. I heard that in Frankfurt, they finally pulled out some army cots for people to sleep in. How kind, those floors are awful cold and hard. What I hope out of this is that industry wide some major reforms come about and heck, maybe every customer service organization. Let me tell you about a 3 suggestions I have:

1) Take responsibility for your passengers. The airlines insisted their responsibility in “carriage” (transport) is only when you are physically on a closed plane. Once you are no longer on it, they do a “pontious pilate” and wash their hands of any responsibility. I consider this morally reprehensible. When the airlines figure out that they are responsible for your safe passage from the moment you book a flight till YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR FINAL DESTINATION, you are under their care. Act like it. Own it and maybe some loyalty will emerge.
2) Communicate with your clients. In the age of email and texting and cell phones, there is absolutely no excuse not to reach out to your customer and assist with moving things forward. 10 days I was in Europe and never heard a thing from an airline, hotel, governmental entity though they had all my contact info noted above. What a joke. The biggest irony? As I was boarding my last flight home (I took an earlier flight from Atlanta to BWI and good thing, the flight I was booked on was cancelled-typical), I got a text message from the airline reminding me to check in online (for the cancelled flight). If people didn’t feel so alone when in the air travel world they would not feel compelled to do #3 (see next)
3) Make it impossible to book more than two bookings for the same time period. Turns out that a huge part of the airlines problem is that some people were booking 6-10 different flights and then not showing up but for one flight, leaving tons of open seats. I can understand two bookings because in business sometimes things go long and you need a plan A and B as to what your next destination is, but not 6+. The airlines need to smarten up that this is hurting them. They have centralized bookings, all we need to do is add in proof of identity (driver’s license or passport) and cross reference this and it could be all but eliminated. Would help TSA within North American security too I suspect.

Three simple suggestions on fixing the next (and there will be a next) Katrina like situation within the air travel industry. Anyone out there? Are you listening? I wonder.

As I am getting on the train in Italy to head south I am watching on TV the Milan Airport and the Prime Minister is holding a news conference carried by CNN international and Italian TV. The prime minster has opened the airport. He said that Italy is friendly for travelers. He is calling it “Project Liberation” OMG. The final irony. My standup routine is complete.

On the trip home, a train from Milan to Genova along the coast of Italy, then the boat to Barcelona and a mad dash to the airport. Checked in with Aero Mexico and Murphy attacks again. As I check in I spend the next 15 minutes with the gate agent as my passport would not be accepted. I wonder where this can go? Lead away in handcuffs? On the banned list to entering the US? Nope, just a slow computer server and it eventually lets me in. Good side was I got a chance to chat up the gate agent going over my woahs and the last week plus and his jaw was just in his lap over it. When we were done he asked if there was anything else and I just said a free upgrade to first class would be great…we both laughed and I went on to the gates.

After getting in my tight little middle seat I was waiting for the doors to close anxiously awaiting knowing I was headed across the pond when one of the agents called my name over the loudspeaker and asked where I was. I raised my hand and the agent said, could you get your bag and come with me…my heart sank. What now? I was so close. There was a problem with the passport wasn’t there….maybe something in my bag that didn’t look right? Sigh..ok. The agent says to me…Mr. Law, please accept Aero Mexico hospitality. We have a seat for you in first class. OH…Sweet. I don’t remember much of the flight but I had a seat that reclined almost horizontally. I get several quality hours of sleep on that flight. A godsend. I’ll never get a chance to thank them, but they made my trip home.

As I got on my next flight from Mexico city to Atlanta…I saw in my minds eye, the red slippers clicking together and the voices saying 3 times (TNPLH) there’s no place, like home, there’s no place like home, there’s no place like home.

Now I am going to sign off and turn my attentions to figuring out the thousands of dollars of charges on my credit card that I have no receipt for and going to the hotel chains that charged two and three times the posted rates for the rooms. We’ll see.

By the way, turns out I heard I earned a new “Indian” name…… “Runs from Ashes” I live for irony. I do.

Some sights along the mad dash home

2010-04-25T18:11:00.000-07:00

I know that along this adventure, I haven't really been able to do anything but leave you with images in your own mind as I dashed from place to place, trying to figure out a way home. In this, my first posting since arriving home, I think I just want to post some of the photos of the trip and maybe a brief caption or two of each. I hope it will lend a bit to the travels and move concrete images of each place I went. Being home now 24 hours, the jet lag is truly catching up to me and so I will post more in the story when I am more awake. You see as I post this at 10pm, it is 4am in my head. I can do better than to tell my tales at 4am ;) I will add more but till then Enjoy.

Here is the flight that never was. The Thai Airlines flight to Bangkok that the airline kept extending and postponing past any chance of catching another fight out.

Traveling from Frankfurt to Milan through the Swiss Alps on the bullet train.

One nice and clean piece of scenery in Milan;

The insanity of the Milano train station. 200 deep.

Not ready when its your turn? "Then, no soup for you"!!!!

The beautiful city of Genova, Italy along the Med. Sea

And the town "secret". A brick pathway all the way to the top of the mountain.

So after a 3,000 ft climb, you could see vistas like this.

My escape ship. In Italy it was called a "ferry".

Finally a flight that actually did what it was supposed to...from Barcelona to Mexico City before catching a short turnaround flight (3hrs) back to Atlanta.

Back on the Radar

2010-04-23T07:21:00.000-07:00

So, nearing dusk I walk out of the hotel, 50+ pound duffel strapped to my back like a backpack and looking positively foolish, I inhale, hold the breath and step out into town with conviction and a pop in my step. Moving forward, it always feels good to be moving forward, I say to myself. I slip away to the appointed location, walk for what seems like miles, straps digging into my shoulders, go thru check in and board. I wait until well underway to say to myself that I am no longer in the wind. The plan is in place and in my mind I am finally on my way home.

For those who care about such things or for those still stranded...and I have met enough to know that there are a lot following along with this story, here is where my travels have been and are going.

After the nightmare in Milano and realizing there is just not enough infrastructure to sustain that many people the decision was made to head south. The reason is twofold: one is that the ash is coming from a volcano in the north and NOBODY can predict the next blast. Reservations on a northern European flight are "rolling the bones", a crap shoot and I don't want to come up snake eyes and have to wait another few days until the reservation lottery gods say I can try again. There is concern about neighboring volcano's that might be even more traumatic. The second reason is just that the classic air hub cities in Europe are just overwhelmed. I suggest that travel through northern Europe be taken off your list or at least a plan to land far south and take trains back north. The UK is in a pickle and I would avoid that airspace unless you can afford an extra week in the wind if the volcano hiccups again.

So I took the train to the quaint little Mediterranean town of Genova. Why this town? It has a ferry that runs every other day to Barcelona. I arrive in Barcelona with enough time to get to the airport and check in for my flight. For those contemplating this route, the three airports worth considering are Barcelona, Madrid and Athens. Athens only has a couple of International flights going east so it is probably less appealing. The other reality is that flights going to the US are booked for weeks. Work with your airline to fly to North America first (Canada and Mexico) and then adjoining flights back to the states. My travels go from Barcelona to Mexico City on Air Mexico, and then onto Atlanta via Air Mexico/Delta, and then Delta home to BWI. The route I took from Milan has been a delight---from the train ride to Genova with the Albanian couple expecting their first child next month but worried they cannot get home (UK) for the babies birth, to enjoying a beverage at a cafe with marine contractors who are dredging the Genova harbor and wonder if they can get back to the UK when their job is done. Their pictures of the work they did in Antarctica was amazing! Seeing them arm-in-arm (or is it arm-in-flipper?) with the Emperor Penguins made me add that to the MUST do list. Who knew the Emperors like to ham it up for the cameras and mimic humans just the way we like to mimic them? Just think of the visuals of doing a moonwalk, high fives with a penguin, or chicken dance together? Quality entertainment I tell you!

A lot of miles in the air coming up so I will sign off now and wish everyone the best. Be home soon!

In the wind....

2010-04-21T02:37:00.000-07:00

It is a strange world living between the knowing where you will be getting your next meal or how you will get to your next destination or home at all. We all get complacent in being able to hop in a car or make a plane reservation or call in a meal. All of that has changed for those stranded in Europe.

Watching people with small children stuck in airports, running out of money and no idea how they are going to get home is terribly crushing. Those stuck in a country without a visa and not being able to leave the airport but without a bed or offer of food is tragic and unconsionable. Here it is happening with frightening regularity. For more often than not, without much compassion from those in the travel industry. Guess that are just well worn with it in that line of work.

In a crisis, the unfortunate reality is that you cannot save everyone and you have to keep job 1 as saving yourself. In a crisis (and make no mistake about it, this is truly a crisis of epic proportions), you have to be playing chess in your mind and thinking 3 steps ahead. And sometimes you have to have an angel on your shoulder. With loving support from family, an unexpected angel arrived in my sister in law, Tee. Tee is quite the world traveler and has her own stories of passage through lands not friendly and going where all would fear to tred. I will be forever in her debt for the help and creativity she offered for no other reason than to help. Tee, can not wait to buy you a beverage!!!

In her own words "like a dog going after a bone", she spent days seaching alternative ways to get me home. While some of the European air space is now considered open, I have seen what the British Fighter plane looked like that was posted on the Internet that went through the ash cloud and did not fare so well. She was glued to the media as well and studied what was happening. Between us we felt the safest route (even though with hours spent by my dear wife on the phone provided a ticket through germany in a week or so) was to head south to where the airspace has virtually remained open all the time.

My wife spent hours on hold with airlines who could care less about helping (gonna start a website called "United is useless". anyone wanna join)?" She was up all hour of the night trying to get them to be responsive, but at the end it became clear that they were still stuck in the rigid mode of any plane....point to point connections and NO PLAN for what would happen if a single point of failure halted you. I owe my dear wife so much thanks for keeping in contact with me, not giving up with the airlines and trying to make them responsive. I can never tell you how much I appreciate all your help and support.

The airlines truly just do not get it. Hope they all go bankrupt so I can go in and show them how it is done. In healthcare if you go to an ER and have to be admitted, you do not have to find a hospital to be admitted to. The hospital either has a bed or transfers you to one that does. A million metaphors in my head but the airlines are a total disaster for customer service. I know that is not news, but when you manage to "lose" 500,000 people in the system as there is now throughout europe and have NO plan in place for how to help any of them get home and they are suddenly responsible for their own plans, you have a total failure. I will stop the rant (for right now) and get back to the story.

I have a blackberry so I have been able to stay in touch with those at home and keep them apprised ( though txting when its early AM in Europe means txts being received in the middle of the night at home) and up to date helps to keep the anxiety down on both sides. Truly being in the wind without any clear direction is a curious place to be and quite a bit terrifying. Unfortunately a blackberry has a browser but I have learned most of the news broadcasts, travel agencies and other search engines for things like flight schedules do not have the capability to work well and the bandwidth precludes using it as a means to search for solutions yourself and most of the hotels do not have internet access points. Internet cafe access is so overwhelmed that at one, you signed up for 15 min blocks 2 days in advance. not exactly an easy way to search for a way home.

I will post my exact path home on a later blog entry because the herd mentality out here in the wild is beyond belief. I watched in Milan as one US resident said he got a ticket on a train to paris and he heard paris was open airspace create a true stampede at the train station and now trains to paris are booked for 10 days. So please forgive me if I wait until I am safely on my way to share my path.

Let me tell you what I have experienced. 90 minutes waiting in line at the Milan train station only to be told that the website that handles the train line I wanted was down and to come back the next day. I saw hundreds of people sleeping in any travel hub (bus, train, airport) with no place to go and no idea when they will get home. I do have some photos, but internet cafes in europe are locked down so tightly that the thought of how to circumvent the security to upload photos would stop anyone except a real computer pro. Where is a geek when you need him/her?

That night, Tee and I spent hours coming up with multiple plans for atacking the issue. We both agreed that the whole transportation system was overloaded and all normal routes were jammed so we had to get creative. She spent hours with me figuring out alterntatives. After coming back to the train station the next day with almost no sleep ( you cannot imagine the anxiety of not knowing when/if you can get to the next place as it was looking hopeless) I went back to the train station at 4am to get in line for when it opened at 5:45am with three options in mind. the overhead page now stated that all trains heading north ( and that included freight trains converted to passenger to cover the onslaught) were booked forward 4 days. Heard on the news that the volcano blew again. The UK to be hit hardest. Whewww... ( but also feel sorry for those trying to get home there). I outwardly wonder how much isloation I can handle and realize the isolation is not what is hard, but the feeling of being trapped. Hitchhiking becomes my last (4th option) but now viable option of getting outta here. That tells you the level of resolve that becomes required. Others merely sit and wait for someone to help them. I wish I could impart that it will be a long wait (like forever). The whole system is overburdened and there is no master travel agents waiting to tell you the right path to take.

The train I wanted (that got me to a point of exit) was fully booked Drats. I quickly change gears and get a bus ticket that puts me on a bus for 20 hours. The ticket agent in oh so broken english said to not bring water or drink and to "empty good" because there is no stoping and no bathroom. Quite a challenge but sometimes there are sacrifices to make.

While waiting at the bus terminal, a UK family had their pack stolen. In it was their credit cards, phones, photos from their trip around the world for the past 6 weeks and their money. They had their passports in their hands so there was at least one saving item. I am carrying a chest pouch and while I feel like a uber dork every time I have to pull it out at a restaurant, this reminded me that forceable means will be needed to get my "stuff". I hold no illusions of the definition of stuff. It is what you can lose and replace and covers everything except me. I will survive. I still watch my stuff and carry all in my big bag. When I say big, it has all the gear I needed to get to everest and is a huge duggel bag without wheels with 60+ lbs and is a lot to carry around where ever you go. Mega Uber Dork you would say if you saw me. Actually in the states I would say homeless person which is probably kinda ironically appropriate for the situation. I laugh at myself. Yup, well dressed, clean and shaven homeless.

I get back in the train line ( I said I had three options) and 2 hours later get a train ticket for the alternative destination. I like this option because it is obscure and even the gate agent cocks her head to the side (like a dog trying to understand something) and actively asks why I would want to go there. I hope that the city name is correct and smile and say that I think it is a good place to go. Cost all of $20. A bargain. Heck, if you just wanted to get out of Milan it would be a good choice LOL.

Milan is a town that is VERY italian. Lots of crazy driving, wild accidents, bravado, machismo, very physical...(women look like the wrestlers in WWF or off a paris runway and nothing in between). And it is a sorta rough city. Besides the theft of the Brits pack, I watched a couple various times pickpockets working the crowd. A scream of "policia" was enough to divert the bands but they would return soon enough. It is old school here. And some around you who do not wish you well. As a side note, there are a LOT of prostitutes. The funny side to it was they best dressed, best made up one who could have fit in anywhere in the states was a dude. Ewwww. To each their own path I guess.

I catch my train, leave the city and arrive at my new destination. Next destination tickets in hand, I have a day to kill. Will wander the city and take some photos. It is overcast but mighty sunny in my world. I am going to feed on this optimism for awhile and nourish the soul for the next leg of the journey. Not sure when I will get to post again, but will be as soon as I can.

And thanks Bebe, it gave me the laugh of the week to hear about the BCHF. Bring Craig home fund. Not needed, but appreciated. Now, a referral to a good dog bite attorney to go after the airlines might be fun!!!

Game Set Match

2010-04-18T08:53:00.000-07:00

Who knew an Icelandic volcano would be the unexpected trigger to derail the trip to Everest. I did not see this as a risk I should mitigate. After missing my flight to Bangkok and getting no hotel or food support from either United or Thai Airways - United and Thai Airways are useless in a crisis barring one Thai Airways staff person who helped me get my gear off the plane on the tarmac. I headed via train to Milan which was still open. I bought a train ticket but was never offered an assigned seat. This is key because if someone bought it they own it. I spent half the trip on the floor. Don't you think this is something the ticket agent should have shared? Who knew? Arrived at 10 am local time and the airport has been shut down until further notice. Thousands more travelers stranded many without much cash and no way to get home. Many are sleeping in the airport. All European business are taking full advantage of the crisis. Any taxi starts at 50 euros or 75 US dollars. It was $100 to get from the airport to the hotel outside of town that has no hot water, no Internet terminal, no one speaks English for the bargain price of $400 US. Can anyone visualize the Saturday Night Live routine yet? Oh, did I mention the cab broke down in the middle of rush hour? I can't make thus stuff up! I hope to find a way to the south of Italy where I hear the airport is open but I've heard that before. What I do know is the volcano is getting more active and that spells a longer crisis than thought of now and if you see crowds fighting for food or taxis at the airport you would see that CNN is UNDER REPORTING how drastic this is. I will be fine but I don't think I am waiting around for the cloud to lift. I am going back into the wind and try to find an international airport open. Wish me well and I will try to check in again wherever I end up. The scenic trip of a lifetime has magically turned into some twisted game of the Amazing Race where every pit stop there is not enough food or beds. Unfortunately I had the tearful email exchange with the Mountain Madness trip leader, Nepalize staff and company president to carry on without me as the window of time to get there has closed. I wished them safe travels and hope they can share the great stories of the trip when they get back. Sigh. Maybe someday.

2010-04-16T14:22:00.000-07:00

Where in the World is Craig Law?

Next stop...Milan!

I am taking creative liberty to update everyone. Craig was able to get the last seat on a train to Milan leaving at 2:00 am Frankfurt time. He is headed to the airport in Milan with a standby on Thai Airlines for Bangkok, and as a first choice a flight on Qatar Air that will get him all the way to Katmandu. The Qatar Air depends on whether they will issue an emergency travel Visa as the flight lands in Doha for two hours.

Planes, trains and automobiles...and many prayers that he can get to Nepal and live his dream.

Rosie

2010-04-16T14:04:00.000-07:00

Stardate 2010.4.16

Roadblock? Can anyone spell roadblock?

I have been transported unexpectedly into a real life game of amazing race. After sitting on the tarmac at Dulles for 3 hours we refueled with enough fuel to go anywhere and took off with a redirected flight plan taking us out of UK airspace and arrived 45 minutes after my flight was to go to Bangkok. Panic set in as all rooms in the city were taken. I got the last room 10 miles from the airport in Frankfurt. Reconfirmed seats for the next day on Thai Airlines and tried to relax and adjust internal clock ahead to be ready for next morning. Get up at 2 am ET - 8 am Frankfurt time to learn the airport is shut down. Now I have reconfirmed room for another night to assure a roof over my head and plan for alternatives. Considering high speed train to Munich (not closed) and what ever flights to Asai seem to be best, but an awful choice. Airline says that the Frankfurt airport only closed till noon Frankfurt time so flight is still on. Heading out now to see what fate has in store. Any more delays risk missing team out of Katmandu and don't know if I am brave enough to try to hire a porter and play catch up on the trail, especially if my gear is not in my hands. Yup, this is a surreal turn and I feel completely unprepared for it. Who knew?

When in our lives have we seen so much syzmic activity? I head to Everest and a volcano in Iceland errupts all air travel all over Europe. UK, France, Belgium, Norway, Sweden and of course Germany where we landed and then the airspace promptly closed. Everest halted by a volcano in Iceland? WHO KNEW?

Last post before "I'm outta here!"

2010-04-11T05:22:00.000-07:00

Training is all done. Sleeping at 17,000 ft (11% O2) almost through the night (but really poor sleep quality), repacking to make sure I dont miss anything.

And the plane flights...arrghhh...it was a good thing I called the airlines. All my flight times have changed and the layover in Frankfurt went from 4 hours to 2 hours so my gear has to get checked all the way to Nepal from the start even across airlines. Crossed fingers that it makes it.

Even though I'm allowed 50lbs for the international travel, the flight out of Katmandu only allows 44lbs so I have to re-weigh in different configurations. The technical details.

We'll see how the internet is when I get there, photos will definitely be up when I get back, but am bringing some technology along that might help me post a low-res photo or two if I can get a dial up signal and a post or two here!!!

And can't believe it. On the way home I was so looking to the 8 hour layover in Bangkok to tour the city. Now there are major demonstrations against the government and who knows what will happen over the next few weeks. Rats.

The demonstrations against the government in Nepal are Monday. I leave for Nepal on Wednesday so that should work out well and life will be back to "normal" by the time I arrive. If not, I know how to stay low and keep moving and stay below the radar.

All this to stare up at a big rock...LOL

Interesting stories developing at Everest for this climbing season. The youngest ever to attempt the summit (Jordan Romero) is attempting in the next few weeks, so I might get to meet him.

http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5gRdg76Mx5X4I9te4QDYi0gtWGAkA

Or the Sherpa who has summitted more times than anyone and who brought his family to the US for an education.

http://www.aolnews.com/world/article/sherpa-to-climb-mount-everest-for-20th-time/19423586?icid=mainmaindl1link3http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aolnews.com%2Fworld%2Farticle%2Fsherpa-to-climb-mount-everest-for-20th-time%2F19423586&sms_ss=email

Or the whole Everest "Season" that is covered well in this blog:
http://www.alanarnette.com/news/

So, I've left you with some of the insight and the fascination that gave this little journey "legs" for me. Now with all the preparation work done, I am off to go visit "the roof".

One last item: April 26. The big day. Party day at the roof...

Sing along-----with me!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXec-vIuCEc

Last of the Preparations

2010-04-04T12:05:00.000-07:00

With only 10 days to go, I am finishing off the last of the preparations. Testing out the last of the things that need to work, like a feeble version of a shower, via baby wipes. Thankfully, also unscented...LOL Up that high, you cannot just grab a drink or a bath from the river or spring. It would be environmentally disasterous to the region since all the villages in the Kumbu valley all have one source of water, what comes out of the bottom of the glacier at Everest. Strict rules include only taking water from permitted locations and consuming or using it hundreds of yards away from the river as any impurities could wreck havoc on those downstream. The ground is porous and contamination of the water is a significant issue to take control of.

Yesterday went to Catoctin State Park and hiked with my dear wife for a little less than 4 hours. We made a good bit of distance and the trails we chose had a good bit of up and down in them including a 3/4 drop of about 1,000 feet to leave the thighs good and burning. I hear that coming down from BaseCamp is actually more physically demanding than the trail up because you can train for up. Climb stairs, treadmill inclines...but going down steep trails is a skill hard to re-create, so this was an enjoyable exercise. My best guess was we did about 5,000 feet of up and about the same down over several trails. I keep getting some silly looks from folk out on the trail mistakingly thinking I am hiking with a bullet proof vest instead of a weight vest. One woman looked positively worried.

Sleeping (sort of) at 15,000 feet now...hopefully can make it to 17,000 before leaving. Have my instructions about weight limitations on gear (44lbs) and instructions for family should there be any disturbances (earthquake, civil unrest) and all the paperwork seems in order.

I am unsure about how much access to Internet I will have once on the trek, so what I might want to post may be delayed until I get to a village with some access. There is not much electricity up in the valley, so do not concern yourself if the blog goes silent. It just means I am saving it all up. On the other hand, if I can get some lo-resolution photos out online, I will.

T minus 10 days and counting!!

Thurmont Vista Overlook

2010-04-04T12:02:00.000-07:00

Getting stronger every day

2010-03-23T05:34:00.000-07:00

Two events stand out in my mind this week. The first happened at the beginning of the week when I tried to jump up in altitude and my body revolted. Anoxic migraines are just ugly. Went from 9,000 and tried to jump to 12,000 (to give myself more time to acclimatize at the extreme altitudes of 15,000+) and in the AM when I woke up my head was just pounding....the kind of pounding that you remember from college when you discovered teguila had limits attached to it. (Of course I NEVER had any experience like that....but I heard stories..LOL) Anyway, as I watched the world pulse for the next 90 minutes, advil and lots of hydration, I got to the point where I could stand up and carry on because pretty much I was bed ridden. 3 hours later and it was all a memory. But needless to say, I have learned my lesson and will take a slower route to getting up high. As I write this I am sleeping at 12,000 a week later, but without any side effects.

The other was a great weekend hike. Went hiking with my dear wife and we took the advice of a neighbor (Thanks Rick!) about a Appalachian Trail section that went right up the side of a mountain to a beautiful view of Harpers Ferry, WV and the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah River. I put on my 25lb weight vest and water bottles and we hiked for about 2 hours, going up 16 switchbacks and total climb of about 900 feet from start to where we headed back, stopping only for a quick gaze of the views. When we finished we had already discussed my getting a little extra workout in so off I set to do the climb a second time.

During our early travels along the trail during a really wonderful day (started at low 50s) without a cloud in the sky we were not alone. Dozens and dozens of boy scouts had the same idea about what a great day of hiking this would be. We carefully stayed in the middle of the groups so as to enjoy the trail somewhat alone. When I went for the my second trip, I decided to do a speed climb...so with my treking poles (think ski poles) up I went...after 30 seconds I got bored of going up at a leisurely pace and decided to pick up the pace so I started to walk as quickly as I could up the hill....another 30 seconds and boredom sets in again so with my 25lb pack...off I go jogging, up the switchbacks and up this huge hill....especially picking up the pace in the more flat sections, but also letting myself slow to a walk on the billygoat parts of the trail. One twisted ankle away from a challenge to getting ready that I did not want to have, so did give myself that gimmie. What I realized was that my cardiovascualar response was GREAT...I flew up the hill and while certainly sweating and huffing and puffing, I got to the top in 15 minutes. I stopped at the overlook, enjoyed some water and then turned around and ran back down passing the 30+ people I saw on the way up. The looks on the faces of those hikers was absolutely wonderful. They were shellshocked to see me running back down. All along I was hearing, "you ran all the way to the top?" as they panted walking up this mountain. I finished my run passing a scout pack and then jogged over to the car, and started to change into a new shirt (kinda soaked from the trip). A guy comes up and asks me how old I was. 50. He gets this stunned look and says he has never seen anything like that in his life and calls me an inspiration and walks off shaking his head.

I guess this training thing must be working ;) Hercules unleashed. Yup, feels good.

Chutes and Ladders

2010-03-14T08:15:00.001-07:00

For those of you that remember the childhood game, Chutes and Ladders is a game where you roll dice and based on the block you land on you can jump ahead (ladder) or drop down (chute). The game invokes a particular amount of irony about how much it really does resemble life. Sometimes you are amazed at your good fortunes and how lucky you are and then without any real understanding, wham...you are back a few steps looking up at where you just were. More on that in a moment.

This weeks training has been awesome. The weather has been prohibitively wet as the mid-atlantic has been hammered by severe flooding which makes hitting a trail with already soaked ground an ideal combination to blow out a knee or wrench an ankle. So, no hill work. But spring is clearly coming with daytime temps to near 50 degrees.

The streets and treadmill have been getting really good workouts...6-8 mile runs, some slow hills and all in all a good week of feeling stronger and well prepared...but then there is....welcome to a chute.

While trying to be proactive about anything health related stuff before the trip, I took care of a little Derm thing that required a couple stitches. No big deal. Decided against getting the colonoscopy done ahead of time (at 50 a mans gotta do what he's gotta do) so I have something to look forward to when I return (NOT!).

Any way, haven't done any backpack carrying because of waiting for the stitches to heal (have used a weight jacket that provides even pressure) and 4 days after having the stitches pulled, half the incision opened up as in wide open. Turns out I blew out one of the deep stitches and so now I have a dime sized deep wound that needs to heal. Can't be reclosed because of how long after the first stitches went in and not something you can dismiss out of hand as ANY open tissue is a real risk in a developing country with NO access to healthcare available. So here I am feeling pretty stupid for having done this ahead of time and having to deal with simple wound care and telling my body...HURRY. But it does look as if I will have much less backpack carrying training that optimal for this trip. Hopefully wont affect things too much.

Other big thing is that I am trying to pre-altitude train. On the east coast there is no place that you can really altitude train, but I am trying to fake it. I found a group that rents altitute tents/canopies and am trying to sleep at progressive altitude. Up to 7,000 feet so far with no noticeably effects except that I must sleep really well earlier in the evening because I am waiting up refreshed but noticeably earlier. Even with the daylight time change, I woke up at my normal hour. I'll be progressing 1,000 feet a night to see how I respond. According to the group I got the equipment from, my running speed may take a noticeable jump in a couple weeks. Gee I hate when I feel like hercules unleashed!! LOL

That is pretty much one of the last variables I can account for. If I can get sleeping at 15,000 to 16,000 foot altitudes I should have no problem aclimatizing to Base Camp.

Chutes and Ladders. Yup, good lessons from age 7.

Getting into the routine of it...

2010-03-08T07:51:00.000-08:00

Lots of good workouts this past week. Long run Monday, in the gym on Tuesday, another long run Wednesday, then Friday did a 2,000 foot elevation change hike (1.5hrs) and an 8 mile run Saturday. Sunday was a "stretch how hard you can go" workout...3.5 hours and 3,500 feet up and 3,500 feet down for a total of 7,000 feet of elevation change. All 5 feet of snow had melted in the past 10 days and the ground is mush. Even found a new spring coming out of the side of a hill. Cleaned it away to make sure it flowed well and will get it tested. Having a clean spring available is a nice backup plan in case something happens and your water is out. Of course boiling and treating is still necessary, but still nice to have the resource.

Monday, I am sore.

Funny story. Went to get repeat blood work on my immunity (had no immunity to Hep A or B) since those are kind of basic immunizations and quite suprising that I wasn't immune. The technician wrote down the wrong code for one of the tests and instead of measuring immune response they only checked on whether I had exposure to Hep A (a communicable disease often transmitted via food) and indeed via the immunization I had exposure (a good thing). The Health Department then called my doc and only after a VERY long conversation did they figure out that yes, it was a GOOD thing that my test was positive and it showed that I WAS having an immune response to the vaccine. They still wanted to make sure I wasn't a restaurant worker. She assured them that I was an enthusiastic consumer, but I was not in the restaurant biz.

Hep B still not much response, but before they label me a 1%'r (one percent of the population have no immune response to a vaccine), they want me to get a third shot in another 3 months. Long after I am home again, but just the same.

Day by Day Itinerary

2010-02-28T16:01:00.001-08:00

I tried to figure out assuming travel is on time and there are no rain delays, no snow delays, no illness (I can wish can't I) or anything else, where we will be each day. Not that these villages are on anyones most visited list (oh, you just have to have the rice and beans in Dingboche, its to die for!), but in case you want to see when the group should be on a given day and the trail and where it goes, this is close to what is expected. The only locked in times are flights out and back...from there it is how the group is doing and how much high altitude illness and stomach sickness abounds. Unfortunately, in this decidedly developing part of the world, the santitation (lack thereof) is such that many trekkers succumb to debilitating gastric distress at some point in their travels. There is debate amongst experts if it is the combination of altitude and stomach illness that causes it to be so severe or just a lack of exposure to these bugs outside of the region, but it really doesn't matter, if the altitude doesn't get you then you still have to be careful of the cooties.

April 14 Leave Dulles 945pm
April 15 Arrive Frankfurt 1150am
April 15 Leave Frankfurt 3pm
April 16 Arrive Bangkok 640am
April 16 Leave Bangkok 1035am
April 16 Arrive Katmandu 1245pm
April 16-17 Stay at Yak ‘n Yeti, Katmandu, Nepal
April 18 Fly to Lukla, (the one, the only)...then trek to Phakding 8.700 ft 2-3hrs
April 19 Trek to Namche Bazaar 11,300 ft 4-6 hrs
April 20 Acclimization day in Namche Bazaar
April 21 Trek to Tengboche 12, 887 ft 4-7hrs
April 22 Trek to Dingboche 14,250 ft 4-6hrs
April 23 Acclimization day in Dingboche
April 24 Trek to Lobuche 16, 175 ft 4-6hrs
April 25 Trek to Gorak Shep (ascend Kala Pattar 18,450) and return for night 17,000 ft 6-7hrs
April 26 Trek to Base Camp and spend night 3-4hrs 17,750 ft
April 27 Day at Base Camp and return to Gorak Shep for night
April 28 Trek down to Pheriche 13,950ft 7-9hrs
April 29 Trek to Debuche 13,950ft 4-5hrs
April 30 Trek to Namche Bazaar 11,300ft 6-8hrs
May 1 Trek to Lukla, 9,350ft 6-8hrs
May 2 Fly to Katmandu, Stay in Yak ‘n Yeti
May 3 Leave Katmandu 6pm
May 3 Arrive Bangkok 1035pm
May 4 Leave Bangkok 110am
May 4 Arrive London 7am
May 4 Leave London 10 am
May 4 Arrive Dulles 130PM

I'm thinking world class jet lag at this point...any doubters?

Finally a break in the bad weather

2010-02-21T17:33:00.000-08:00

This week has had benevolent weather. Slow melting of some of the snow has left all the trails covered within now ONLY 18" of snow. Seriously thinking snow shoes as a training modality...LOL

45 Minute run...all good....end of weekend was a 6 mile walk around the town. With the huge piles of snow through all the neighborhoods any cars coming through immediately create an uncomfortably close encounter.

Got the usual odd looks as I, in my hiking boots and gear are hoofing it around town. Today it was in the upper 40s which was really nice for a walk, but I am not sure the rest of the town felt the same call to the outdoors.

Come to think of it, if I wasnt looking at the calendar and knowing my precious training time is flittering away, I would probably be doing something else than wander around town. I wonder how long it will be before the trails are open again. I need hills and elevation change. Can't wait to do a new trail down in VA, supposedly hits the highest point. Having done highest point in Maryland a year ago, VA is a nice add. I laughingly looked up what the highest point in Delaware is. Turns out its the top of a bank building. Guess I can't take the elevator and call it a summit, huh?!

Training up

2010-02-09T07:56:00.000-08:00

Trying to keep up a good training regime. Last week did 2.5hours and 3,000 elevation change up and down. Felt ok next day. Running on treadmill at a good clip and at ease with 45 minute runs. Only challenge is the weather.

Last weekend was a 3 foot snowfall. Unheard of for Baltimore. Took till Monday eve to get a plow into the neighborhood. Not exactly good treking weather. Great weather to test cold gear. That soared with flying colors. Got a slightly used convertible Marmot jacket that will easily be able to handle cold and rain. Not sure I'll even need a down jacket with this.

Hearing rumors about another big storm capable of up to 2 more feet. Anything like that hits and it will bring this town to its knees for days. Hard to hike when your back is toast from shoveling tons of snow......

Preparing for the weather....

2010-01-28T13:25:00.000-08:00

The weather. How to plan your gear for some of the wildest swings of weather on the planet? We start out in an area that can be warm and humid (Nepal is latitude equivalent of Tampa Bay, FL) and end up in a place that can have 50+ mph winds and storms to drop the temperature below zero. Yup, at base camp, on average once during the april/may trekking window, a storm hits and the temp dips to -15F. Who knows if you roll the dice on your trip and come up snake eyes? Oh, did I mention that everything you take including all gear and snacks should be under 35 pounds? Luckily the yaks will take the bulk of the weight but you still need to bring changes of clothing for the days hiking. Sign me up and roll the bones.

The hill workouts have been good for other things too. Checking out gear performance. I did one of the hikes in 35 degrees and strong rain. Came to the conclusion that my waterproof gear is top drawer and I’m not going to have any major problems there because I was warm and comfy. Next workout was about the same temp, but dry so I tested a different combo and found that what I thought was a good windbreaker wasn’t breathing and my shirt and fleece tops were soaked. Not good if the temp suddenly drops into the teens on the trail.

Today, the choices in gear is intimidating and daunting. There are all sorts of things to learn about in the new hiking gear. Used to be, you picked up your hiking boots (Vibram soles defined whether they were hiking) put on jeans and went hiking. Now there are base layers (poly shirts, pants and underwear) that are used for wicking moisture so you stay dry and warm, mid – layers (poly fleece often) and then outer layers. This is where I learned a lot. The base layers get a rating of 1-3 depending on how thick or insulating they are. A ‘hard’ shell seems to be a waterproof shell and defines nothing about how heavy the fabric is. A soft shell is a water “resistant” but highly breathable layer that has insulation (think lined pants). It seems to be categorized in levels 1, 2 or 3. 3 is for warmer weather and 1 is down to freezing. So my testing identified that I had a failure in my M1 softshell. Off to the internet I go. Now how do you know if you need a $100 M1 softshell or a $350 M1 softshell? I read the reviews and guessed. Hopefully the gear store will take returns if I am a moron and misjudge.

How to train for this?

2010-01-24T09:18:00.000-08:00

This training thing is very challenging. Not the physical part, that frankly, is a piece of cake. Been doing it my entire life. Since 14, I have had the mindset of an athlete and understand the day to day grind of training and the discipline necessary to train on good and bad weather days. But I always did that in the gym, the road for running and in a boat. Now kayaking in moving water when it is 20 degrees outside required its own sort of planning of gear and learning the value of preparation. But never have I trained in the woods. How to train for hiking in 14,000+ foot altitude with 3,000 foot rises in elevation daily is a challenge. Especially when you live at sea level.

The most convenient place I have near me is a state park trail next to a convent about 2/3 of a mile from the house. The trail drops about 400 feet over 1/3 mile down to a suspension bridge over the river. Up or down takes about 15 minutes with my 25 pound weighted backpack, so I’ve been doing 3 circuits (up/down) in 90 minutes. Not a bad little workout. That is roughly 2,500 feet in elevation change. 1,250 up and 1,250 down.

Going have to at least double that over the next 90 days to get close to the same elevation change as is on the trek. So to just get the bare minimum at sea level of what will be coming at altitude is going take 3 hours of training a day. Ok, where to cut corners to create that kind of waking free time? Sometimes I ask myself what I was thinking.

Final Airport before the big walk (not my flight but WOW!!)

2009-12-19T07:43:00.000-08:00

It's not just a long walk....its an adventure! Lukla Airport in Nepal has the reputation (deserved or undeserved) of being the most dangerous airport in the world. One approach, no circling around for a second try (mountains on all sides) so its ALL IN. Here is a video of a clear day landing. Imagine in the fog...OMG!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvFo2VBTLck

The Goal

2009-12-05T14:40:00.000-08:00

Immunization Hell

2009-11-17T17:53:00.000-08:00

OMG. What you have to endure so you can see what you can endure.

Went to see what is needed in travel medicine to go to Nepal. Oh, just your ordinary stuff and a few you've probably never heard of. Like Japenese Encephalitis and Typhoid. But no wait, there's more! See my primary care provider (or who USED to be) has managed to LOSE my immunization record. If anyone has any doubts as to how broken the US healthcare system has become, you need only to find out what is missing from your own medical record. Had a cardiac ultrasound in my 30's (because he 'thought' he heard a click), but of course, no copy of the results in the chart. Had a MRI of my spine at 40 when during training for the 2000 Olympic Trials my back hurt all the time (duh, if you worked out 15 hours a week, you'd hurt too) and of course, nothing in my chart, but my immunization record? All the way back to age 4. Nope, not in the chart (like it was a heavily viewed document???) Like my NAME wasn't on it? How exactly do you LOSE something like this? Fine. So what is next?

Boosters...thats what. So in one sitting of injections I got:

Td (Tetanus-Diptheria)
Flu (Seasonal and H1N1)
Pneumonia
Polio
MMR (Measels, Mumps, Rubella)
Meningitis

Nothing could have prepared me for how my body responded. Hours 16-36 were hell. Went hella viral. Shaking uncontrollably but without a fever. Skin hurt, joints hurt, muscles hurt, appetite gone, I think my hair hurt (if I had any to hurt). Went to sleep the second night and very seriously wondered if I was going to wake up in the morning. I did. After day 2 bounced right on back.

So, I have a few more to address. Hep A, Hep B and Chickenpox. Got bloodwork to check my titers on those cause I should have a lifetime immunity already but if not, I will need them.

So next steps are my results and then back to the shotmeister. For whatever has worn off over the years and JE and Typhoid.

Other things.

Evacuation Insurance. Turns out that Blue Cross and Blue Shield is good for all 50 states. Leave them and you are on your own. So to cover any compassionate repatriotisation (isn't that a nice phrase for intracontinental emergency evacuation) I got secondary coverage. I learned that once we leave Katmandu (starting point) there is no healthcare at all. Period. Nadda. Not just not close, like zip. Yup, this is where rural, frontier goes to the next step. Dial 911 for not a prayer.

Dates are set!!

2009-11-10T16:24:00.000-08:00

It's official. The trip of a lifetime. I am heading to the big rock. The big roof. Everest Base Camp.

I'll be trekking April 16 - May 3. Leaving Dulles Airport in Northern Virginia on April 14 at 9:48pm and after 3 grueling flights over the next 36 hours going through Frankfort, Germany and Bangkok, Thailand, arriving in Katmandu, Nepal at 12:45pm on April 16. I will be trekking with the Mountain Madness crew out of Washington State. For those who read and know Scott Fischer's story "Into thin Air", this is his company.

The return is scheduled for leaving Katmandu on May 4, at 6pm and again traveling 36+ hours back (this time following the earths rotation and date line) through Bangkok, Thailand and London, England arriving May 4 at 1:30pm into Dulles.

I have realistic expectations. I have no illusions of climbing the big rock. Don't intend to climb the icefall or more. My goal (should I be lucky enough to succeed) is to be able to give a high five to any of the climbers preparing over the summer to try to summit. Ideally, I'll get to spend a night in base camp amongst the climbers and then head back down the next day. Oh, but to be there above the trees, amongst the clouds and to stare up at the tallest point on earth. It is a goal.

I have kayaked down some of the fiercest rivers in the world. Raced against the best in the world and quite unfortunately lost a lot of friends along the way. This is not nearly so adventurous as jumping out of a perfectly good plane as I did 10 years ago at age 40. At 40, I qualified for the Olympic Trials in Slalom Whitewater Kayaking. I am pretty sure it was my last hurrah. Continued competing for a few more years but I think I have left that behind me.

Last year, I ran my first half marathon. In case you didn't know, that is what the bumper sticker (13.1) is all about. Did it in under 2 hours. Not a bad time and certainly not bad for the first one. Placed in the top 25% of my age group.

But this is different. This is endurance of the human spirit. Pushing through and on. A mental and physical challenge. Over days and frankly weeks.

Depending on the group, half to 25% of those attempting the trek make it to base camp. Altitude sickness affects most people at some level on the trek, severity determines how far you get. I will not push on if my body betrays me and I succumb to the altitude. That can be fatal. One strike against me is that I live near sea level. No place like Colorado close by to do high altitude training. Nope, for me it will be a good bit of running for cardiovascular conditioning and some heavy pack hiking locally for ups and downs of the trail. Unfortunately, I'll have to do my most strenuous training during the winter which is usually wetter and may be colder.

The good news is that the altitude I have been able to get to in the last few years hasn't seemed like altitude at all. Grand Canyon, Leadville CO, Grand Tetons Park, all 7,500ft + of which I actually had MORE energy and felt lighter. From the reading I have done, this is sometimes seen in athletes that the altitude is an easy adaptation for the body to handle because you've trained yourself to be in oxygen debt and your body has developed compensatory systems to keep you level. We'll see. No guarantees and no promises. Only hopefully looking forward.